How To Wash Hiking Shoes In A Washing Machine | The Safer

Most hiking boots should not go in a washing machine because the spin cycle can weaken waterproof membranes, loosen adhesives.

You probably dropped your boots in the garage after a muddy weekend and thought, “I’ll just toss them in the wash.” It’s a natural impulse. The machine seems like the fastest way to erase all that trail grime.

The honest answer is more careful. REI, Columbia, Salomon, and Altra all advise against machine-washing hiking boots. The agitation and heat can damage the very things that make a boot perform — waterproof linings, glued soles, and structured support. This article walks you through what can go wrong and how to clean your boots the safe way.

The Damage A Washing Machine Can Do

A washing machine isn’t gentle on a boot’s construction. REI’s expert advice guide says flat out: “Never put boots in a washing machine because it can damage them.” Columbia echoes that warning, noting that the combination of detergent, heat, and spinning can break down materials.

Waterproof membranes like Gore-Tex rely on thin layers bonded to the boot’s interior. The aggressive tumbling of a wash cycle can delaminate those layers, creating invisible gaps that let water in. The same goes for the glue holding the outsole to the midsole — once that bond weakens, the boot starts to separate.

Leather and suede boots suffer even more. Machine washing strips natural oils and can cause leather to crack or stiffen over time. If your boots have a waterproof rating or a leather upper, the machine is especially risky.

Why The Machine Feels Like The Easy Answer

After a long hike, the last thing you want is to spend more time scrubbing gear. The washing machine promises a hands-off solution. You throw the boots in, add detergent, press start, and walk away.

The problem is that promise doesn’t match reality for hiking footwear. Unlike canvas sneakers or running shoes, hiking boots have complex construction with multiple layers, stiff shanks, and often waterproof treatments. That complexity makes them fragile in a machine setting.

• Agitation damage: The tumbling action can fray stitching and loosen the bond between upper and sole materials.
• Waterproof membrane stress: Repeated flexing during the spin cycle can create micro-tears in Gore-Tex or similar linings.
• Insole and midsole compression: The spin cycle’s centrifugal force can deform foam insoles, reducing cushioning over time.
• Detergent residue: Standard laundry detergents often contain enzymes, bleaches, or softeners that can degrade leather and waterproof coatings.
• Banging noise: Boots are heavy; the machine can become unbalanced, potentially damaging the washer itself.

The convenience of machine washing comes with real trade-offs. For most hikers, those trade-offs aren’t worth the risk, especially if you hope your boots to last more than one season.

When A Machine Might Be Acceptable

Not every hiking shoe is built the same. Lightweight trail runners made mostly from mesh or synthetic fabric can sometimes survive a gentle machine cycle. The key is knowing what your shoe is made of before you load it.

Salomon recommends rinsing hiking shoes with water and using a soft brush or sponge to remove mud and dirt. That’s the preferred method. But if your shoes are 100% synthetic mesh with no leather trim and no waterproof lining, a machine wash is less likely to cause permanent damage.

Shoe Material	Machine Wash Risk	Recommended Method
Full-grain leather	High — strips oils, causes cracking	Hand wash with saddle soap
Nubuck or suede	High — ruins texture, causes stiffening	Brush off dirt, spot clean
Synthetic mesh (no waterproof lining)	Low to moderate	Gentle cycle in mesh bag, cold water
Gore-Tex or waterproof membrane	Moderate to high — can delaminate	Hand wash, use specific cleaner
Canvas hiking shoe	Low	Gentle cycle in mesh bag, cold water

If you choose a machine cycle, remove laces and insoles first. Place the shoes in a mesh garment bag. Use a gentle, cold water cycle with a slow spin. Skip powder detergents — they can cake inside the shoe. Liquid detergent is safer. Even then, many hikers report that their boots never felt quite the same after a machine wash.

How To Hand Wash Hiking Boots The Right Way

Hand washing takes longer, but it gives you control over every step. You can target the dirty spots without stressing the entire boot. Most pairs come clean in about 10 minutes of active work, plus drying time.

1. Remove laces and insoles: Take both out before you start. Insoles can be hand washed separately with mild soap and water. Laces can go in a mesh bag in the machine or be scrubbed by hand.
2. Brush off loose dirt: Use a stiff brush or old toothbrush to knock off mud and grit before adding any water. This prevents scratching the material during washing.
3. Prepare a cleaning solution: Mix warm water with a small amount of mild, pH-neutral soap. REI advises against standard laundry detergents, which often contain harmful additives for leather and waterproof membranes.
4. Scrub gently with a soft brush: Dip the brush in the solution and work in small circles on the dirty areas. Avoid soaking the boot completely. Focus on the outsole, the toe rand, and the tongue where grime builds up.
5. Rinse with clean water: Use a damp cloth or rinse under a gentle stream of cool water. REI recommends always rinsing boots thoroughly after cleaning. Residual soap can attract dirt later.

For stubborn mold spots, REI suggests a mix of 80 percent water and 20 percent vinegar applied with a cloth. Test the solution on a small area first, especially on leather or suede.

Drying Matters As Much As Washing

How you dry your boots can undo all your careful washing. Never put wet boots in a dryer or near direct heat. The high temperature shrinks materials and can crack leather or melt synthetic components. Heat also accelerates the breakdown of waterproof membranes.

Altrarunning’s care guide recommends letting shoes dry naturally at room temperature. The same logic applies to hiking boots. Remove the insoles after washing and leave both boots and insoles in a well-ventilated area away from radiators, fireplaces, or direct sunlight. Stuffing the boots with newspaper helps absorb moisture from the inside. Change the newspaper every few hours until the boots feel dry to the touch.

Drying Method	Effect On Boots
Machine dryer	High risk — shrinks, cracks, delaminates
Direct sunlight	Moderate risk — UV degrades materials
Near heat source (radiator, heater)	High risk — uneven drying, damage
Room temperature with newspaper	Low risk — effective and safe
Boot dryer (low heat setting)	Low risk if designed for footwear

Allow at least 24 hours for boots to dry completely before wearing them again. If the insoles are still damp, the boots aren’t ready. Putting on damp boots can lead to blisters and accelerate wear on the interior lining.

The Bottom Line

Machine washing your hiking boots is a gamble that can cost you performance and longevity. Hand washing with mild soap and a soft brush or sponge is safer and just as effective at removing dirt. Remove laces and insoles, scrub gently, rinse thoroughly, and air dry away from heat.

If you’re unsure about your boot material, check the care tag inside or look up the manufacturer’s guidelines — Salomon’s rinse and brush clean method and Altrarunning’s hand wash only advice are good starting points. A boot-specific cleaner from an outdoor retailer can also protect waterproof membranes better than generic detergent.